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Day 11 – Navajo Nation – Canyon de Chelly

Before I headed to the Navajo Nation, I had some lunch at the Rocket Diner with Romelo and Kady. This was their go-to spot for food when they were in Gallup. I had a New Mexican chicken fried steak with red chilis. The chilis were really good and a good, tasty level of heat. Kady told me that if you want to try both, you say Christmas. There were a wonderful couple, and a lot of recommendations to do in New Mexico. I would love to make a return trip here.

In the afternoon, I backtracked to Arizona and the Navajo Nation. Window Rock is a border town on the Arizona side and has the Navajo Nation History Museum. It was a powerful experience, reading the displays about the beliefs and traditions, and the arrival of colonists who displaced and killed many Navajo. Then, to see how the Navajo Code talkers were used during WW2. The building, art and displays were all beautiful and a really touching experience.

The drive up to Canyon de Chell was a nice drive with some rain and thunder. Rain in the deser feels different, it’s nice and warm. It feels like a reprieve from the 100+ days I’ve been in this week. On the drive, I saw some wild horses running along the road.

The canyon has a full loop you can make but after checking into my hotel and getting to the canyon, I was only able to make it a quarter of the way around the rim before making my way back to one of the earliest viewpoints from the south so I could get there in time for golden hour on the walls of the canyon.

Canyon de Chelly may not be as massive as the Grand Canyon, but I found it more interesting. The views are amazing; the rock formations provide unique shapes. There is far land on the floor of the canyon you can see from the ridge. The history spans centuries, with clay houses built into caves along the walls on the canyon. Floor access is limited to tours only, with the exception of the White House, which has a public trail a mile and a half down to the floor. I’m not a hiker and would probably be stuck at the bottom not wanting to return.

I can’t imagine what it would be like to even live in a dwelling like that. But when in the desert land like the Southwest, you find shade where you can. Tomorrow I head east again and back to New Mexico. This was an eye-opening detour and was worth seeing.